Papo de Política #99: diplomacia ou conspira??o?

The best French restaurants in Rio de Janeiro in 2025

Casa 201 has been voted the best French restaurant in the city by the 2024 Rio Show Gastronomy Awards. Learn more about this and painel nuvem bingoall the other award-winning and nominated restaurants in this category. 1st place: CASA 201 Jo?o Paulo Frankenfeld has emerged as a rising star — and his ascent shows no signs of slowing down. Not only here in Rio but also in the eyes of the Michelin Guide inspectors. But none of this happened overnight. At the helm of the discreet and charming Casa 201, named the best French restaurant of this edition, the chef boasts an impressive journey — both nationally and internationally. Of German descent but classically trained in French cuisine, he was an instructor in the professional program at Le Cordon Bleu. And he stands out among all the city’s chefs for a rare distinction: he makes practically everything he serves. That includes his own ingredients — from mustard to butter, cheeses to beer. This month, for instance, he’s even serving sake made in-house. Since opening Casa 201 two years ago — in partnership with restaurateur Cris Juli?o — Frankenfeld has been regularly updating the tasting menu (R$ 660, or R$ 420 more with wine pairing). It follows the rhythm of the seasons, the day’s ingredients, and his always spot-on experiments. Want a taste? Pastrami vol-au-vent with coleslaw and pancetta jam with chili; bluefin tuna marinated in house-made sake and miso, served with sake ice cream, caviar, and togarashi sago; scallop raviolo nero with sparkling wine cauliflower and lardo; oeuf meurette on brioche with mushroom cream; chorizo with miso, carrot mousseline, and baby vegetables in Port wine. Before dessert, there’s a pause for the cheese board — made by the chef himself, of course. And then, the grand finale: vanilla entremet with black garlic and honey gelato, plus a trio of petit fours. Très bien! Jardim Botanico: Rua Lopes Quintas 201 (9670-70201). Tue to Sat, at 8 p.m. Reservations only. One of the featured dishes from Casa 201, voted Best French Restaurant of 2025 — Foto: Rodrigo Azevedo 2nd place: CHEZ CLAUDE The veranda seating is inviting on pleasant evenings, but from the dining hall, one can watch the preparation of Chef Claude Troisgros' original recipes. These dishes blend Brazilian ingredients with a French base in an open kitchen led by Jessica Trindade. The menu suggests sharing dishes. Highlights include classics like the open ravioli stuffed with baroa potato purée, noisette butter, and pine nuts (R$68), and grilled grouper with caramelized banana, onion, and raisins (R$148). A section dedicated to dishes celebrated at Olympe reflects the chef's 45-year journey in Brazil. Notable options include oysters with tucupi vinaigrette and tapioca caviar (R$64) and the FHC quail, stuffed with herb farofa, chard, and grape sauce, created in 1996 for former President Fernando Henrique Cardoso (R$134, pictured). For dessert, the warm apple pie with almond crumble (R$45) is served hot, contrasting with cream ice cream. Note: The annex space where Mesa do Lado once operated will house Madame Olympe in August, featuring more contemporary recipes and a tasting menu. Leblon: Rua Conde de Bernadotte 26 (3579-1185). Monday to Wednesday, 6:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Thursday to Saturday, 6:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Sunday, 12:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m. 3rd place: DIDIER One of the few authentic French culinary representatives in the city, the bistro owned by Breton Didier Labbé—who worked alongside Claude Troisgros for ten years—offers traditional recipes (with the occasional tropical twist) that hardly change, in a laid-back atmosphere. Escargots, gratinated with herb and garlic butter with panko crunch (R$96), moules et frites, mussels in velouté sauce with herbs and fries (R$79, pictured), and the excellent steak tartare, also with fries (R$63), are standout starters. Among the recipes that earned the establishment the champion title in the category last year are the nero risotto with shrimp, lemon cream, julienne vegetables, and crumble (R$99), and the duck magret with rosti cassava, heart of palm, acerola sauce, and chives (R$108), a French classic with green and yellow accents. On the sweet side, more icons like profiteroles with vanilla ice cream, drizzled with dark chocolate sauce and caramelized almonds (R$32). Ipanema: Rua Vinicius de Moraes 124-A (3624-7960). Monday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight. Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Best restaurants in Rio in 2025: Best Asian Restaurants of 2025 Best Steakhouses of 2025 Best French Restaurants of 2025 Best Italian Restaurants of 2025 Best Japanese Restaurants of 2025 Best Pizzerias of 2025 Best Vegetarian Restaurants of 2025 Best Bars of 2025 Best Breakfast Spots of 2025 Best Pastry Shops of 2025 :root { --market-label-font: OGloboTitleFontBold,OGloboTitleFontFallback; } French restaurants nominated at the Rio Show Gastronomy Awards BALC?O 201 The small bistro bar, opened at the end of May in the space formerly occupied by Venga! in Leblon, is a (much) more informal version of the acclaimed Casa 201, voted the best French in the city this edition. In a compact 40 square meters, with an interior counter (hence the name) and sidewalk tables, the space has taken on a Parisian flair with engravings, lamps, and pieces sourced from French markets by partner Cristiane Juli?o. Here, you can taste a bit of Chef Jo?o Paulo Frankenfeld's kitchen, with French-based recipes ranging from sandwiches, appetizers, cheeses, and charcuterie to traditional dishes, all made in-house. With Chef Roberta Ant?nia (formerly of Suru Bar) leading the kitchen daily, rollmops, pickled fish rolls with pickles (R$48, for a trio), and liver mousse with vermouth jelly (R$78) are featured. The entire charcuterie line—displayed in a glass case at the counter—becomes sandwiches, like the porchetta with caramelized onion, mushroom ketchup, and lettuce (R$68). There's room for classics like steak tartare with fries (R$84). Another icon of blue, white, and red cuisine, the crepe suzette (R$42), with orange, Cointreau, and whipped cream, is a sweet finale. Leblon: Rua Dias Ferreira 113. Tuesday and Wednesday, 12:00 p.m. to midnight. Thursday to Saturday, 12:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m. Sunday, 12:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. D’HEAVEN Known from TV screens, former MasterChef contestant Heaven Delhaye attracts attention as she circulates the dining room, but she isn't the only draw at this French-accented establishment. Daughter of a French chef and a Portuguese oenologist, she crafts contemporary reinterpretations of classics worthy of television—like the mignon tartare, served chopped over a roasted bone marrow, with mini soufflé potatoes, black garlic purée, low-temperature cooked yolk, and sprouts (R$148, for two). Her famous spaghetti carbonara, a detour into Italian cuisine, is flambéed tableside inside a 32kg parmesan wheel. Also popular is the roasted and pressed beef rib with demi-glace sauce, crispy potato slices, burrata cream, broccoli, garlic, and pickled onions (R$119). Among the desserts, white (R$49) or dark (R$55) chocolate spheres, drizzled with hot sauce and topped with cotton candy, are another showstopper. The chef also leads two Italian establishments under the BFW group: Heaven Cucina at Vogue Square and Shopping Tijuca, and Nonna Per Heaven at ParkJacarepaguá. Barra: VillageMall. Av. das Américas 3.900 (3252-2896). Monday to Thursday, 12:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 12:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Sunday and holidays, 12:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. FRANCESE BRASSERIE Opened in July, this French sibling of the Italian Babbo Osteria, also led by Chef Elia Schramm, occupies the mansion where the Asian Si-chou once operated, now revamped into a sunnier environment with travel-sourced objects and a charming veranda. The establishment offers a relaxed menu featuring classics with modern twists and original creations. To start, choose between octopus croquettes with nero aioli (R$43) and the delicate carpaccio of scallops and pupunha heart of palm with spicy mango sauce, noisette butter, and quinoa (R$85). A must-try and one of the chef's signature dishes is the terrine lucullus (R$98), made of smoked tongue and foie gras, wrapped in puff pastry and served with a salad of French beans, raspberries, and hazelnuts. The traditional le cordon bleu (R$63), crispy chicken breast stuffed with royale ham and gruyère cheese, is served with potato mayonnaise and a mix of greens. Don't skip dessert: the pain tatin (R$35) is a French version of French toast with apple compote, ice cream, crème anglaise, and caramel. Ipanema: Rua Bar?o da Torre 472. Monday to Wednesday, 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. Thursday, 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to midnight. Friday and Saturday, 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m. Sunday, 12:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. GLóRIA BISTR? Inspired by Parisian bistros, this establishment opened in May in place of the Mediterranean Oia, by the same group, offering French cuisine with immigrant influences—and attractive pricing, earning it 3rd place in the cost-benefit category. The beautiful and cozy dining room, with vintage furniture, black-and-white photos of musicians like Billie Holiday and Marvin Gaye, and a large mirror covering the ceiling, is a highlight. In the kitchen, led by Chef Ignácio Peixoto, foreign touches appear in recipes like the Lebanese trio of tahini hummus, smoked babaganoush, and strained yogurt with pita bread (R$58) and oeuf mayo, French egg mayonnaise (R$28). The flagship dish among mains is the black angus pastrami, cured, smoked, and braised over eight days, available in two cuts—brisket (R$112) or rib (R$188)—with baroa purée and herb salad, or as a sandwich on pretzel bread with mustard aioli and pickled red onion (R$56). The steak au poivre is made with tuna, seared with pepper sauce, fried leeks, and sautéed broccoli (R$88). The banoffee mille-feuille, with caramelized banana, dulce de leche, and mascarpone (R$36), is a fitting end to the visit. Ipanema: Rua Bar?o da Torre 340, Ipanema. Monday to Thursday, 12:00 p.m. to midnight. Friday and Saturday, 12:00 p.m. to 1:00 a.m. Sunday, 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. LA VILLA For 11 years now, nestled in a charming high-ceilinged house in Botafogo, Chef Grégoire Fortait's bistro is a safe harbor for the authentic flavors of his homeland. Starting with the homemade paté de campagne (R$42), accompanied by house-baked sourdough bread. Colder days call for onion soup served under a puff pastry crust (R$58). Moules frites are also offered: mussels cooked in the shell and served with fries can be prepared in white wine or with cream (R$84; or R$148, for two). In the specialties section, classics like coq au vin (R$65), chicken marinated in red wine with potatoes, carrots, bacon, and mushrooms, and cassoulet (R$125), the French bean stew with confit duck. For dessert, crème br?lée with vanilla beans (R$35). From Tuesday to Saturday, at any time of day, the bistrot menu is a good choice (R$89 for two courses, or R$105 for entrée, main, and dessert). Botafogo: Rua álvaro Ramos 408 (2542-2771). Tuesday, Wednesday, and Sunday, 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. LE BLOND With a checkered floor, red leather sofas, pots hanging from the ceiling, and mirrors on the walls, entering the yellow glass doors of Claude Troisgros' establishment in Leblon is like stepping into a typical Parisian brasserie. His son, Thomas Troisgros, runs the kitchen, with classics adapted for the Carioca palate. Hard to find around here, the cheese soufflé, topped with gorgonzola cream (R$48), arrives at the table steaming. On cooler days, the moules frites (R$72), mussels in white sauce with fries, pair well with a glass of wine (starting at R$36). For the main course, the roasted rib arrives melting, with demi-glace sauce, aligot, and pearl onions (R$128). The fish moqueca is "à la fran?aise," without dendê (R$102). Sweeten the meal with the dulce de leche petit gateau, which also features Brazilian touches with Canastra cheese and requeij?o sauce (R$34). At the executive lunch, dishes like picadinho are R$62, and the more complete formula includes starter, main, and dessert (R$99). Leblon: Av. Ataulfo de Paiva 1.321 (96800-3535). Monday to Friday, 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. to midnight. Saturday and Sunday, 12:00 p.m. to midnight. L’ETOILE From the top of the Sheraton hotel, the panoramic view of Leblon and Ipanema beaches competes for attention with the elegant recipes that arrive at the table. Under the supervision of Breton Jean Paul Bondoux, the menu features French classics—such as frogs prepared with butter, garlic, and parsley (R$102)—which gain a Latin touch from Chilean Chef Juan José Molina. The fish duo appears in the form of fillet and terrine with chorizo and asparagus, wrapped in cabbage leaf, mornay sauce, and pea purée (R$159). Among the meats, lamb sirloin beef bourguignon and herb-crusted lamb rack with blueberry demi-glace and gratinated potato mille-feuille with caramelized onion (R$193). The meal can conclude with the inverted tarte tatin (R$53), made with crunchy meringue, apple textures, vanilla ice cream, puff pastry flakes, crème anglaise, and vanilla oil. For a complete experience, opt for the seven-course tasting menu (R$490), which includes some hits and exclusive seasonal creations. S?o Conrado: Sheraton Grand Rio Hotel & Resort. Av. Niemeyer 121 (99129-3828). Tuesday to Saturday, 7:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. LOIRE BISTR? There are many ways to visit the French restaurant of the Tragga group. The small pot of truffled mushrooms with soft-boiled egg (R$68) is a good start on the à la carte menu, which could continue with entrec?te with pepper sauce and fries with béarnaise sauce (R$138) or the fish of the day with mussel sauce, roasted vegetables, and lemon risotto (R$124). At any time of day, L'Experience Loire offers, for R$129, a starter, main, and dessert, which could be mango gazpacho with shrimp, grilled salmon with grana padano risotto, and berry pavlova. At lunch, another formula option is the French-style rodízio, with a choice of protein (starting at R$74) and unlimited sides. When it gets a bit chilly, the fondue is popular, available every day in versions like meat or mixed cheeses (R$289, for two). Hidden at the back of the restaurant, Merci speakeasy opened this year, offering drinks, pizza, and a DJ. Barra: Vogue Square (97999-3403). Monday to Thursday, 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and 6:00 p.m. to midnight. Friday and Saturday, 12:00 p.m. to midnight. Sunday and holidays, 12:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. TéRèZE Framed by large windows showcasing views of the neighborhood's houses and garden plants, the elegant rustic-decor dining room in the Santa Teresa MGallery hotel welcomes guests with contemporary French cuisine, interspersed with seasonal national ingredients. Under the supervision of Executive Chef Jér?me Dardillac, Luanna Malheiros prepares dishes like the cocotte of smoked corn cream with blue cheese and poached egg (R$62). Next, dishes like octopus with chickpea purée and ratatouille (R$160) and duck magret served with onion crème br?lée, vegetables, and orange sauce with spices (R$145) take center stage. A delicate vegetarian option is the beet gnocchi with coconut milk and Dijon mustard sauce, organic vegetables, and Brazil nut (R$90). Desserts pay homage to city icons: the ?le fiscal flottante (R$52), inspired by Ilha Fiscal, is a reinterpretation of the classic egg-white pudding, floating on a vanilla crème anglaise with caramelized almonds and caramel sauce. Santa Teresa: Rua Felício dos Santos 15 (98509-6826). Daily, 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. SIGNATURES The first teaching restaurant of the prestigious Le Cordon Bleu in Latin America brings together the faculty of the renowned institution, with head-chefs Yann Kamps, Philippe Brye, and the friendly Moroccan chef Mbark Guerfi, who infuses North African touches into some dishes. An example is the foie gras au torchon (R$175), served with beghrir—a light Moroccan pancake—fig chutney, and artisan bread. Another starting option is the carpaccio of saint jacques (tilapia) with pupunha, mango, and Brazil nut (R$125). Among the mains, the novelties are the griddle-cooked octopus with black rice risotto, confit tomato, tulha cheese, and aioli (R$145), and the nero linguine with lemongrass sauce, langoustine tartare, and caviar (R$152). In the sweets section, the chocolate in ten textures (R$65) features the sweet in macaron, meringue, ice cream, brownie, chantilly, ganache, and more. The elegant setting blends antique furniture, crystal pendants, and Givenchy-style chairs. Besides the à la carte, there's a tasting menu (R$638 or R$836 with wine pairings) and the chef's suggestion, with amuse bouche, bread basket, starter, main, and dessert (R$170 or R$290 with pairing). Botafogo: Rua da Passagem 179 (97236-3218). Tuesday to Saturday, 12:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. The translation of this text into english was carried out by Project Irineu, O GLOBO's initiative to develop artificial intelligence tools. Here is the link to the original report. 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